Yesterday we saw William the Conqueror’s castle in Caen. The palace rose up in the middle of the city, from a shady green hillside that was evidently a favorite hang out for local youth. They were sprawled everywhere, girls and boys mingling, chattering, giggling--laying on their backs to watch clouds, on their stomachs to pluck at the grass. Our group loitered on the hillside for a little while as well, then moved on to a tour of the eleventh century castle behind us. A short climb up the ramparts yielded a breathtaking view of the city below, a horizon full of Gothic steeples and five story resorts.